There's a feeling of enchantment from the moment you step aboard the ferry at the old town of Burtonport (Ailt an Chorráin) five miles from Dungloe (An Clochán Liath), and steam past the surrounding islands of Inniscoo and Innishkeragh, and half an hour hence, arrive at one of Ireland's largest inhabited islands. Populated from the early Iron Age onawards, Arranmore (Árainn Mhór) has been a centre of Gaelic culture for centuries.

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